Friday, March 23, 2012

The ephemeral world... (15th Sept.'10)

मान्धाता महीपति क्रितयुगालन्कार भूतो भवः |
सेतुर्येन महोदधौ विरचितः क्वासौ दशस्यान्तक: ||
अन्ये चापि युधिष्ठिर प्रभ्रितयो याता दिवं भूपते |
नैकेनापी समं गता वसुमति नूनं त्वया यास्यति ||

{Maandhaata cha maheepati kritayugalankar bhooto bhavah,
Seturyen mahodadhau virachitah kwasau dashasyantakah?
Anye chapi Yudhishthir prabhritayo yata divam bhupatey,
Naikenaapi samam gatha Vasumati noonam twaya yasyati!}

Context
Verse written by Prince Bhoj (later, King Bhoj or ‘Bhojraj’, the legendary king in India, immeasurably wealthy, immortalized in the saying ‘Kahan Raja Bhoj aur kahan Gangu teli’, comparing his wealth with that of an oilmaker at the opposite end of the spectrum), with his blood on a leaf, on being spared by the assassin sent by his uncle Munj, the regent who wanted to usurp his throne. Munj repented on reading the verse (realizing the essentially ephemeral nature of worldly wealth), and called Bhoj back.

Interpretation
King Mandhata used to be the jewel of Kritayuga (i.e. 'Satyayuga', the age of the pious, but departed from this earth),
(Lord Rama) who built a bridge over the sea and slayed the ten-headed (Ravana, the king of Lanka), where is he now?
Many other kings like Yudhishthir (the Pandava king in Mahabharata) came to this world (and departed),
This earth (the worldly wealth) did not go with any of them, but (from your behavior it seems) it will go with you!

Relationships... (5th Jan.'10)

A clinical psychologist of Indian origin with a practice in Chicago recently got famous after writing a book with a provocative subtitle: 'Love Will Follow' (sub-title: 'Why the Indian marriage is burning'). The book purportedly attempts a look at the emerging contours of Indian middle-class marriages, especially the changing & progressive behavior of wives in traditional marriages, based on interactions with a clutch of couples (mostly the wives) in NCR. The author has also put up a group with the same name on Facebook, and initiated a number of discussions. 

One of the discussion topics was: 'Do you think wives drive their husbands into the arms of other women'. It quoted another site with a reference to the recent Tiger Woods episode.

What is stated in the above topic line (never mind the referred website article, too long) may be untrue for the vast majority of marriages in India. Husbands may have other reasons to philander (if that's the right word). But it may well be true for some Indian marriages, even if in a minuscule minority right now. There are some husbands (and mind you, not all staying in a family home, but as a nuclear family, so the 'culture wars' factor - ref. the book - may be as good as absent) who may consciously try to get out of the MCP mould in which their then family/society may've tried to mould them into while they were of an impressionable age. Wider exposure, sometimes on travels, sometimes due to interaction with 'emancipated' individuals/bodies, may also push them towards 'progressive' behaviour.

But then, they may find the shoe on the other foot. Now that they seem to be doing all they can (in their own perception, which is of course moulded by their own upbringing) to go all the way to 'progress' (read equality in relationships - physical, financial or otherwise), they may find they are being pushed around. Perhaps not 'unfairly' from the other's standpoint, but hugely in their own perception. Like, perhaps, having to take care of the child and home single-handedly (with some help, hopefully, from in-laws and others), while the wife focuses totally on her career. Again, not 'unfair' from her point of view (esp. if she had made career sacrifices in the past for family reasons). But the point is that, for the moment, 'equality' in the relationship is gone. And a double whammy would be the total lack of face time (and consequent lack of intimacy) that it could be accompanied with.

So, what does a typical, 40-ish Indian man do in the circumstances. Perhaps he can't think of a divorce, given extended family pressures and more imporatantly considering the effects of a failed marriage/single parent on a small child. And perhaps he's not of the disposition to shout around and cause visible unpleasantness. Some men could perhaps tend to sublimate their frustrations by getting more involved with their friend circule (drinking binges?) or community efforts. But some could think of relationships outside the marriage, sexual or not. If only (and perhaps mostly) to have at least 'someone to talk to/listen'.

Caveat: No generalisations. We're not talking here of numbers or general trends or majority, only of what could happen, perhaps in a very small minority of cases currently.

And seen from another angle, the topic itself seems to be somewhat anachronistic in these 'modern' times. After all, an emotional disconnect should absolve people from the 'duty' of keeping up the pretenses in these 'emancipated' times, no? Making a brouhaha about an 'affair' is "so 20th century", if one goes by current trends. (:-)

Traffic paranoia in Delhi... (11th Sept.'09)

Whew! What happened? This Thursday (10th Sept.) evening, going back from office, I was able to just zip through the roads in the heart of South Delhi, to cover the 34 odd kms to my home in Gurgaon in just under an hour! Unprecedented!

Initially, I thought it was because I started a bit late. It was already 6.30 by the time I finished whatever it was that I was doing in office. Having resigned myself to the usual killing traffic which I was destined to encounter at that hour, I took my own time getting out. I even browsed through the company notice board while going out, something I hadn't done in months! I gently eased my car into the traffic from under the Modi Mill flyover and... whoa! what was this? An almost empty Kalkaji mandir flyover greeted me. Usually, I can see vehicles strung out jostling on that bridge, looking none less than the Queen's Necklace of Bombay.

So I thanked my stars at having found what I thought was a 'gap' in the traffic (from Noida, Faridabad,...) coming down the Modi Mill flyover, and reached the Nehru Place flyover in record time, all the time dreading the prospect of the usual jam at the next turn. The usually sparse traffic at N.P. bridge was no surprise,but... even near C.R. Park/Pamposh Enclave there was no traffice to speak of. Rounding the Greater Kailash flyover and on to the Chirag Delhi one, I felt blessed. This was the very spot, at the foot of the Chirag bridge, where a few meters of waterlogging the previous day and caused a traffic jam right back up to Nehru Place, causing me to cover the princely distance of 5 kms. from my office to Panchsheel in an hour.

Continuing past Panchsheel at the same pace, it all finally began to sink in. What could've happened (purely my reading) is that having burnt their fingers (and much else) the previous day in traffic, many (most?) Delhites on that route had chosen to make an 'early run' and cross much of the potentially 'dangerous' road space in good time. OR was it that the 3-hour long traffic jam on the same (and surrounding) roads of South Delhi the same morning had caused many to 'miss' their office (I know, for instance, that one of my friends heard about the jams from morning TV news and decided to give his office a miss - understandable, given that he hass to travel from Gurgoan to Noida every day, a distance of 45 kms.!)?

So that's the extent of road paranoia, if I may call it that, that pervades the heart of every Delhite (and NCR-ite!). We dread running into traffic, some of us take loooonnng detours just to avoid heavy traffic, we avoid going to places where we are not likely to find parking space (I've myself once long back gone from my home in GK-II to nearby Lajpat Nagar, taking 45 mins. to do that, then circled around the place a few time, not finding parking space, coming back home - and that was about 9 years back!), even changing our schedules (including birthday/anniversary celebrations!) to suit the traffic.

A large part of the reason for the traffic mess in which we find ourselves is all kinds of construction (Metro, flyovers, 'beautifications' - road medians dug up & the loose earth & to-be-installed light-poles dumped on the road alongside, a normal sight all over South Delhi) currently going on, some (e.g. the sewerage work from NH-8 all the way to Najafgarh) beautifully timed to coincide with the rains, thus ensuring that the dug up roads are not filled up and metalled again for months. That the bigger problem is the unsustainable rise in the city's vehicle population, some may say stoked by the vehicle financing boom over the last decade, is another story, fit for a different forum.

Next morning (i.e. Friday 11th, yeah, anniversary of the famour nine-eleven), I was rudely jolted out of my reverie by a (usual?) traffic jam near Kalkaji mandir, where it took me an hour and a quarter to cover the distance of the last 1 kilometre to my office (the same time it had taken me to cover the other 33!). Welcome to Delhi!

Wise like Sahadev? (14th Aug.'09)

Sahdev, being the youngest (or one among the youngest, being one part of the twins) of the Pandava brothers in Mahabharata, is probably one of the least celebrated mythical characters. If anything, he's sometimes denigrated for being 'the silent one'. I still remember one of my former bosses eons back berating me for remaining 'silent like Sahdev'! This should not, though, detract from Sahdev's valour - wasn't he the one who killed the evil Shakuni in battle (I hope I'm right - too lazy to Google for this).

So it was quite a surprise to find the name of Sahadev mentioned in a positive light, that too in a business rag. In a piece on training strategies in the 'Corporate Dossier' section of Economic Times 14-Aug-09, the 'Chief Belief Officer' of Future Group (which runs the Big Bazaar chain of hypermarkets, among other businesses) says "We encourage them (that is, the training participants) to be like Sahadev (who knows all answers but speaks only when asked)...". This is said in the context of the need for the knowledge-seeker to go to the trainer, not the other way round, like king Vikramaditya having to go to the ghost (Vetaal) which is the theme of that piece.

Set me thinking. This quality of keeping mum even when you know all (or most of) the answers is perhaps something to be treasured. I go back to my first training program with an INGO, where the facilitator explained that feedback is appreciated by the recipient only when it's given upon being asked for. That is, unsolicited feedback (or for that matter, any piece of wisdom), many a times in the thin disguise of homilies ('upadesh'), is hardly likely to be appreciated by the recipient, regardless of its intrinsic merits.
 

At another point, during a session on 'organisational politics', the facilitator dwelt upon the 'four quadrants of wisdom', depicted as four animals - donkey, fox, vulture & owl. Among them, the highest place was reserved for 'the wise owl' who is aware of all the goings on but choses his own time to intervene (or even help others). The Sahadev syndrome again?

There seems to be definite merit in the concept. Learning is lifelong, and we should all aspire to accumulate knowledge all our life as a continous process. But it serves no purpose to fritter away such knowledge on unresponsive minds. The only purpose such unsolicited 'donation' of knowledge may achieve is boosting one's ego, nothing else. Like the 'experts' and 'commentators' I listen to on radio, espcially on the economic/financial programs, who excel in proffering their take on all and sundry issues given half a chance (pity nobody seems to keep track of their 'predictions' and hold them to account for the same).

The ET piece is based on an interesting concept of using the so called 'children's tales', part of India's heritage, as training tools par excellence, and rightfully so. This is in sync with the other pieces in the same issue which describe the increasing use of classical literature for management learning, including at IIMs in India. Pretty interesting. Maybe the 'Panchatantra' tales we avidly read when young would also some day find takers in the business training space?

When will I get back my Delhi? (29th July'09)

I lived the first 35 years of my life in Delhi. It's only in the last few years that work (mostly) has taken me outside, to Gurgaon in NCR. I remember the time when I used to drive on a mobike on the long and wide roads of Delhi. Admittedly, I don't get to do that very often these days and, when I drive/am driven, it's mostly confined to South Delhi where my workplace and most of my relatives are.

So it was quite a disappointment when, on a recent trip back from out of town, our taxi took us through the once enchanting Delhi roads to meet... a roadblock at every step. Literally. All this beautification and metro-isation and road-widening and flyover-ing is alright, but my heart weeps when I see what all this has reduced the famed Delhi roads to. More than the minor irritation of having to take a detour, it is the disfiguration of and encroachment on the famed vistas and roundabouts and (in some cases) green spaces, even if temporary, that is disheartening.

Most of this is being done in the name of Commonwealth Games 2010. There is a minor question of whether all these big projects, started almost at the last minute possible, will reach their fruition before the commencement of the Games. The big ones like the airport and most of the Metro, yes, but what about all the flyovers? All the road beautification and widening? And firstly, was all this absolutely essential? So much essential as to put the bulk of Delhites through an extended period of hellish living, more so in the rainy season?

I'd give an example of the strange timing of certain works. There was a stretch of tree lined road along a row of farmhouses which connects National Hightway 8 (Gurgaon expressway) to the old Delhi-Gurgaon road at a place in South West Delhi called 'Kapas Hera'. The sewer line work on this stretch was taken up only a few months back, blocking the whole road and leading to detours. But more importantly, the work has been over for more than a month (well before the rainy season) but nobody bothered to resurface the road. With the result that the road has now been converted to a mini-canal!

Not only that, the sewer work was then extended across the traffic square towards Najafgarh, and this extentsion was started within the last month, coinciding with the rainy season - talk about timing! Now one half of this road was dug up and the sewer line put in. And what happened next was quite predictable. With the first rains, the layer of earth put on top of the sewer line just caved in at places one fine day. Only a couple of days back (after the rains returned with full fury), you could see a 3-wheeler goods carrier lying in one portion of the caved in road/earth at a queer angle. And I hope this doesn't happen to a truck or a bus some day.

So my question to all the concerned Govt. & other agencies, as a Delhite (which I consider myself to be, even if I only have an office & not a home in Delhi but in NCR), is: When will you give me back my Delhi?

Cellphone manners (7th July'09)


[A recent post on an HT Blog on travel touched upon how being connected may enable busy people to holiday more. I share here my abridged comments]

While it’s true that new technology is good if it actually ‘frees’ you, is that mostly the case? Some personal experiences may be diametrically opposite. You schedule a holiday to ‘get away from it all’. And then all your companions seem to be doing is going around like zombies with the cellphone glued to their ears!

The new tech. may enable some people to holiday so much more now than 20 years back, but does holidaying just mean physically going around places  and sites? Isn’t it an added (the main?) benefit that people otherwise too busy to connect with one another in daily life, except on a perfunctory basis, should be able to get adequate face time to ‘really’ connect? And how do you get that face time if the face itself is partly obscured by a cellphone almost all the time!

It's no wonder that some people are truly sick and tired of the cellphone, which is perhaps the most ubiquitous manifestation of new tech. More to the point, they are tired of the blatant misuse of the cellphone, if it can be put that way. People seem to be hiding behind new tech. in general (email?) and the cellphone in particular, seemingly to avoid any personal contact.

In days of yore, most people would be offended if you so much as looked away while talking to them, much less start talking to a third person. But these days nobody seems to notice how the cellphone is accorded the pride of place and the highest priority of response even while talking to someone face to face. You may leave the other person looking forlorn but, hey, what the heck, it’s the cellphone after all. And it HAS to be answered come what may!

The bottomline is: how much respect does someone accord to you. Enought to give you his/her undivided attention for at least a few minutes? If not, s/he perhaps deserves the same response and the same level of respect.

This holds true even for those who are no technophobes, those using computers at work since years, present on FB, Twitter, G-talk, Messenger, Orkut, blogging regularly, having own websites, and having tried out IE 8, Opera & Chrome (does that qualify?!). But still the lack of cellphone manners, and the lack of respect for the other that it portrays, may leave them frothing in the mouth.

Doctor heal thyself (10th June'09)

Does aggressiveness and irresponsible behaviour flow from a kind of peer pressure? (The mob theory.) The question struck me when I heard someone I know being asked by his wife “Did you talk to the driver?” What had happened was – the errant family driver in question had gone off on a leave without prior notice, having gone on some sort of a short pilgrimage to another state with family. And on a Saturday (when the employers usually took it easy, not bothering him unless needed) when he was specifically called on duty. The reasons the driver/his wife kept giving during the 2.5 days of absence kept changing – wife’s ailment first, changing houses next, pilgrimage thereafter. So it was not wonder that the fellow was given a sound berating by the employer’s bro-in-law who had originally referred him, including a threat of sacking.

Still, it probably didn’t satisfy the wife until the husband himself ‘took on’ the driver. She was satisfied only when the husband told her (in suitable tones) that he himself HAD indeed ‘taken on’ the driver and repeated some of the same berating and threats. 



Takes me back to a day some years back when I was maneuvering my car through a narrow, one way lane when a fellow on bicycle came along the wrong side. Now, I am a most peaceful and ‘empathetic’ fellow in general. But that day, maybe because I was quite pissed off with the traffic and the maneuvering, I let the errant man have a piece of my mind (no expletives though – my colleagues 20 years back used to taunt me that the strongest expletive I knew was ‘saala’, almost an endearment). You should’ve seen the glow on wifey’s face – seemed to imply that for once I had ‘stood up’.

Got me thinking. Is a degree of aggressiveness ingrained into us by social conditioning. Say, your child comes home sobbing because some other child may’ve taunted him/her or even pushed him/her. What do you do? Do you try to reason with you child and help him/her put the incident in perspective? Do you talk/complain to the parents of the other child? Or do you tell your child to retaliate the next time around? While the level-headed response (the first one) may be quite rare, the response may’ve been limited to the second one till a few years (decades?) back.
 

However, perhaps these days parents would be quite comfortable adopting the third alternative, telling themselves that ‘after all, the child needs to be aggressive to get what s/he wants in this bad, bad world’. The latent fear (sometimes brought on due to personal experiences while young) is also that their child may be seen as a wimp. But is it really the ‘bad, bad world’ outside, or are we contributing to making it that way with our attitude. This can be extended to parents looking the other way when their teenagers indulge in minor misdemeanors while driving, only to have them knocking down a few policemen, while driving drunk in the dead of night. I know this seems like a rampant generlisation, but so be it.

It seems we, as parents and as citizens, have abdicated our duty. Takes me back to the old apocryphal tale of the criminal who, standing in the dock, accused his mother of making him into a criminal by overlooking his early misdemeanours. At least those of us who rant against ‘the system’ can perhaps look at the issues from their micro perspective, to realize how they themselves are contributing to perpetuation of the rotten state of affairs. We continue to criticize the government for the power shortage, but leave lights/fans/ACs/geysers running in vacant rooms/toilets when the power is available. Same with water shortage. And don’t many of us (the paragons of virtue that we are!) gloat in private when the shopkeeper/bus conductor/ autorickshaw driver gives us back more money than is due? Then how can we even tell our children to be virtuous/truthful/honest/conserving (take your pick), leave along actually expecting them to adhere to such high standards.

Alas, it doesn’t look as if people are wont to learn from this. I am realistic enough to realize that people will go on blaming ‘the system’ or the ‘bad, bad world’ for all ills, while merrily going about doing the same things at personal level which, when done by the multitudes, evolve into ‘the system’. There is a sort of disconnect (accentuated by city living) which doesn’t let people see that it is THEY who make up ‘the society’ and then ‘the bad, bad world’. For people to realize this, perhaps we would’ve to go back (or forth, depending on how much of the ‘kaala’ mythology you believe) to ‘Satya Yuga’.

Till then, carry on!

Books, books, books of all genre (17th Apr.'09)

[This is the enhanced version of a comment I made on Kushalrani Gulab's HT blog post 'A new leaf' (16-Apr-09).]

I am head over heels in love with books. I find that different kinds of books appeal to one at different stages in life and also at different times of day depending on mood! For instance, I found history books (esp. textbooks) a pain in the neck when in school, but now go for them like mad. So much so, I read up the whole ‘War and Peace’ (which I used to find unreadable upto college), admittedly over a period of months while travelling, just for the historical references put in an interesting way. Have been intending to take up 'Freedom at Midnight' again, but haven't yet found the sliver of time.

Book snobbery may be something more put on than dictated by actual tastes. I read Hindi, Bangla & of course English books sometimes all in the course of a day, at different times. And I go through English classics of 18th century (Thomas Hardy is a favourite - the searing passions of 'Mayor of Casterbridge', the mix of humour & emotion in 'Far From the Madding Crowd'...) with as much voraciousness as a Harry Potter (I know all seven titles by heart, just as my 8-year old son does) or an ‘Autobiography of a Yogi’, ‘Art of War’ with as much interest as an Arthur C. Clark sci-fi (esp. the Rama series), or a Chetan Bhagat or other chick-lit (currently reading 'Almost Married' & 'BPO Sutra', and have put 'The Last Flamingoes of Bombay' on my queue in the online library). And this still leaves aside the whole of business literature like Peter Drucker. So, all books are only that, books - it’s your takeaway from them that matters.

It does sometimes gall to see the total lack of interest in most youngsters today towards reading (some of my nieces are an exception) but, hey, it maybe because they have other means. Like, we were all conditioned to think that books were our only source of information and solace, so we turn to them like trusted advisors. But today’s youngsters have so many other avenues, primarily TV but also video games (yes, they are reputed to improve motor skills) and other interactive playing devices with stories built in, and some such stories may even come with educational cues or ’shiksha’ built in. So, to each his/her own.

But yes, books have to be readable (after all, they’re supposed to be read, or at least seen if it’s on an e-book reader!). I would prefer a Malcolm Gladwell any day (even if I don’t agree with half his conclusions) rathen than a scholarly researched tome.

Insurance industry conundrum (9th Mar.'09)

So it seems the private life insurance companies (PLIs) have finally realized the importance of renewal premia (ref. Economic Times Delhi 9-Mar-09 ‘Ulips add premium to life insurance renewals’). The other day at the Economic Times insurance conclave, the head of one of the PLIs indicated that the industry perhaps had a misplaced emphasis on new business, and new measures of performance need to be evolved. In another context, critical today in view of current liquidity problems in which almost all enterprises find themselves in the current economic environment, a host of mavens and industry experts have emphasized the need to conserve cash and in fact wring the last drop of cash out of operations (ET Delhi 6-Mar-08 Corporate Dossier ‘Liquidity crisis bites amid global meltdown’).

I remember a post-railway budget public session on TV taken by the Union Railway Minister Mr. Laloo Prasad a few years back. To widespread mirth, he shared the homegrown wisdom that ‘you need to milk your cows to the fullest extent possible’, in the context of the phenomenal rise in the profitability of the Railways. Laloo did become the toast of the management community, with appearances before IIM and Harvard students, though the source of his management insights remains a mystery (does he have a speech writer par excellence?!). However, many did not catch on to a specific aspect of the wisdom above, perhaps due to the then relaxed liquidity environment, viz. the need to get out in the open the liquidity hidden in many stages of the process. Sounds familiar? (see above).

Back to the insurance industry. How much emphasis do PLIs put on the realization of the second (and subsequent) premium? Perhaps much less than that on the first year premium. To be fair, at the corporate level, there are measures to track something called ‘persistency’ and ‘conservation ratio’, which most PLIs track religiously. And the ratios are quite encouraging for many PLIs, mayby 75% or more. But what about the balance 25%? Is there a source of hidden cash there. And do these measures translate to concrete action at the ground level to improve, the same way a fall (or ‘de-growth’) of a few basis points in new business does? Perhaps not.

Any why such disproportionate emphasis on first year premium as compared to subsequent year premiums? There are two ways of looking at it: from the PLIs perspective and from the ground level agent’s perspective. Yes, much as they may insist on complete synchronization between the aims of the company and the individual aims of the agents, the reality may point otherwise.

At the corporate level, most PLIs are running like mad trying to improve their rankings within the industry. And what are the rankings based on? Mostly on measures related to first year premium i.e. new business.

To the agent, and the other sales staff. How much commission does an agent get on first year premium: upto 35% depending on the type of polilcy! Times are good. It may be interesting to look at the trends in insurance commission over the years in more mature markets (India is one of the markets with perhaps the lowest penetration levels of insurance, both in terms of percentage coverage of total population and insurance premium as a percentage of GDP, which hover in the low single digits). But, coming back to the issue, how much is the renewal commission for the agent? Perhaps a low 5-7%. So where would the agent invest his time and energy – in getting new business or in following up with the old customers? Get the point!

So what does this lopsided commission structure encourage the agent to do. Obviously, like any rational human being, the agent would like to rake in the moolah while the going is good. And in this, s/he is ably supported by the entire sales infrastructure of the PLIs which, as we’ve seen, is attuned to maximization of new business.
 

So the main target of the agent while trying to ‘close a sale’ is somehow to get the customer to agree to go in for the policy and put the money down for the first year premium. Once that is done (and of course the policy is enforced after underwriting), the agent is assured of his commission. In fact, some may be on the way to unforeseen heights like the famed Million Dollar Round Table (MDRT)!

And do the agents tend to take a few short cuts in this pursuit? You bet. Let’s consider the selling process of a typical unit linked insurance plan (ULIP), since an overwhelming majority of the business of PLIs currently consists of ULIPs (the tide is turning the other way towards traditional or endowment plans lately, but only very slowly). Wider issues of the suitability of a specific insurance plan to fulfill the financial goals of the customer are conveniently given the go by most of the time anyways. But the agents are also not beyond selling a regular (i.e. other than single year) policy to the client as virtually a single premium policy. The logic they give the customer is: pay the first year premium, and then sit tight. Even if you don’t pay the premia for the subsequent years, you’ll get a good return on the first year premium at the end of three years (the minimum period for which a policy must be continued, as per regulations).

What they conveniently omit to tell the customer is that the corpus represented by his first year premium may have depleted significantly during this time due to the charges which are front-loaded to the policy. And that the expected returns on this (already depleted) corpus would most probably not be enough to cover the depletion, leave alone come out with a profit above the premium paid. The customers, at least the more intelligent ones who take an active interest during the selling process and don’t go purely on personal equations with the agent (more on that later), could probably make this out if given complete information. But how many customers are aware of an animal called ‘allocation ratio’? Not too many one would guess. Because they were shown rosy pictures of sky-high returns in the booming market, sometimes projected on growth rates even exceeding the max. rates mandated for illustration purposes by IRDA.

IRDA recently seems to have caught on to this kind of mis-selling. It came out with the directive that in case the second-year premium on a policy is less than the first year premium (may perhaps also cover cases in which the second-year premium is not at all paid by the customer), the difference between the two premiums should be considered as single premium (on which the agent commission is capped at 2%) and the excess commission paid on it (over the mandated 2%) should be clawed back from the agent and credited to the account of the customer.

Now, some PLI representatives have come out with the apprehension that this may incentivise the customer to ‘blackmail’ the agents, by threatening not to pay the second year premium. One is tempted to say that such agents (who lure the customers into taking a policy by, uh, let’s say, not being completely transparent) deserve to be blackmailed. But this needs a reality check.

How many agents keep in touch with their customers after the first year premium is paid. There is a lot of sales talk of the PLI being a trusted financial partner of the customer. However, the only interface most customers have with the PLI is the agent, who is most probably acquainted, or even related, to the customer in some way beforehand. But once the first year premium is paid (and the policy enfoced), the agent most probably well nigh disappears (some customers could say, like horns from the head of a donkey ‘gadhey ke sir sey seeng’ – any allusion to the customer being treated like a donkey being strictly unintended!).

We’ve seen that the agent does not really have a pecuniary interest in getting the customers to continue the policy by paying premia regularly. In fact, some of the less than scrupulous ones (is that a euphemism for the majority of agents these days?) may even want the policy to lapse, as that may absolve them of the trouble of explaining the less-than-promised returns to the policyholders (if at all the customer manages to get hold of them).

I have a few policies of different PLIs. Regardless of which channel was used during issue of the policy, it is doubtless assigned to some agent. But do the agents follow up with me when I fail to pay a premium (I’m sure most PLIs share the defaulting companies data with the agents, or do they not?). Except for one, no. Most of the time, it’s the PLI’s call center agents who come back to me. And, most of the time, their talk is so similar to the pesky executives trying to sell me everything from personal loans, credit cards to travel options, that I switch off the moment the person begins to speak. Bottomline, this method of follow up would hardly persuade me to change my view (if I’ve not yet decided whether or not to pay the second- or subsequent-year premium that is) and pay the premium.

Transported to another context, this scenario looks alarmingly (you could even say scaringly) similar to the analysis of reasons of the origins of the current US (and World) banking and economic crisis. There were companies whose only job was to sell mortgages, often to sub-prime customers. The mortgages, once sold, were bundled and sold off to (perhaps bigger) financial institutions. Then the i-bankers came in and, using esoteric financial jugglery involving SPVs and what not, transformed the mortgages (including a lot of toxic sub-primes) into securitized debts. These securities were then sold by the investment banks to a wide range of investors, inland and abroad. And, oh, the rating agencies played their role too, giving guilt-edged ratings to such mortgage backed securities (MBSs).

The interesting thing to note above is: probably none of the players in the whole chain had an integrated view of the whole process. The only aim of the front-end companies was to sell the mortgages; once that was done, they had made their money and exited the chain, for a particular customer that is (sounds familiar to insurance agents? you bet!). The others up the chain were just pass-through players who made money from individual steps of the process. And the end-investor, probably in some far away land, who was left holding the paper (later proved almost worthless) eventually, didn’t in most cases realize what was the worth of the paper, having relied totally on the integrity of the intervening players in the chain (who conveniently disappeared when the time came).

In this scenario, do you think the front-enders who created the mortgage would follow up with the customers if the payments (EMIs) stopped coming? Why should they? They had already sold off their interest in the mortgage and made their money.

Back to the humble (!) insurance agent. S/he has probably used her contacts to the hilt while selling the policies in the first place. So many of the customers would perhaps treat him as representative of the PLI when they have to take a decision regarding the policy, right. But is the insurance agent willing to provide such financial advice when the need comes. In the light of factors outlined above, perhaps not. In fact, s/he would perhaps tacitly encourage a trend where the policies lapse (especially where it was a case of mis-selling in the first instance anyway), vicariously so that s/he is able to sell newer products to the same customer, and make money by way of first year commission on such new policies. So the whole concept of the agent being a trusted advisor to the customer (perhaps the reason why many PLIs loftily designate their agents as Agent Advisor) goes out the window.

One point though. Since many such agents have not invested the time and energy to become the trusted financial advisors of the customers, they would find it increasingly difficult to sell further policies. Much of their selling may have been based on showing dreams (some would say ‘sabz baagh’) of unheard of returns to the customers for ULIPs, based on the booming stock market. Now, with the market on a downward spiral, even the gullible customers would not fall for such dreams (the reason why many customers are now choosing traditional or endowment products, and why PLIs are coming up with more such policies). The new plans with ‘guaranteed returns’ could stem the tide some, but not always, and there is a whole lot of mis-selling going on in such plans as well so the customer is wary this time.

To the other end of the spectrum now. The PLIs probably have all these trends and data already with them. So why are they not putting more emphasis on realizing the second (and subsequent) year premia? One reason of course is that all industry performance measures and rankings are based on new business, as we’ve seen above. However, there is one more, more technical, reason.

By law (read: IRDA regulations), based in large part on industry prudential practices, PLIs (for that matter, all insurance companies) are required to invest most of the money received as premium into prescribed forms of investment. Which is logical, since this is policyholders’ money and should be used to earn returns for them. On top of that, PLIs are required to create ‘reserves’ in their books, at a certain proportion to the premia received depending on the type of policy. So PLIs actually “earn” very little out of the premia after the first year, only the prescribed administrative costs. No wonder they try to get the maximum first year premium and front-load all possible charges on that.

Most PLIs have a phenomenal ‘burn rate’ when compared to other industries in their initial stages. Most PLIs have to invest their own (or their principal investors’) money in establishing their business and taking it to a certain critical mass. In things like setting up new offices, building their sales channels by way of new staff, et al. In fact, most PLIs could be ‘losing’ money on each new policy issued, counterintuitive as it may seem. Insurance is typically a long-gestation business, with break-even periods typically ten years or longer.

This does not, however, discount in any way the importance of getting the liquidity concealed in the system out in the open. Insurance companies may not treat their unrealized premia as ‘receivables’ in the conventional sense of the terms as used by other businesses. If they did, they would realise that enormous amounts of money are held up in such ‘receivables’, and could reorient their thinking to increased efforts on realizing such ‘receivables’. Even the minor proportion of such premium realised (after investment & reserving) could enhance their liquidity significantly. And this, for many PLIs, could mean the difference between being quasi-self sufficient as far as their expansion plans are concerned, and running to their investors or principals frequently for more money.

And for the customer, an increased emphasis on subsequent-year business by the PLI should mean more hand-holding by their agent. The agent would, in such a scenario, perforce have to act more responsibly towards the agent, minimizing instances of mis-selling and ‘slam bang thank you ma'am’ kind of blitzkrieg tactics. This would, then, truly transform the insurance company from a distant, impersonal behemoth to a ‘trusted financial advisor’, in the form of an agent.

But all this requires concerted action on the part of the industry as a whole (a relook at commission structures?), the individual PLIs (looking at their performance measures) and the regulators (reserving structures?). Are we all upto the challenge?

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Course of professional life... (5th Mar.'09)

An interesting (and somewhat funny) thing happened this morning. I usually listen to AIR FM Gold 106.4 on the way to office, mainly for its old songs but also for its good mix of entertainment, news & newsy programs (e.g. 'Market Mantra'). Well, I was listening to this usual songs program & the topic on which the host was inviting listener views today was something like 'one decision in your life which, if you could have taken differently, may have resulted in something quite different'.

Now, I'm hardly an avid texter but (maybe because the topic touched me somewhere), on an impulse, I sent in my response by SMS. To be honest, I probably did this only to relieve my own feelings, not believing for a moment that it would be read out, what with probably hundreds (or at least scores) of texts being received by the host. Then I forgot all about it for sometime in office work.

Suddently, after some time, a family friend who was also apparently listening to the same FM channel at that time en route to his office, called me to ask if I had sent in a response. Surprised as I was, I said yes I had. Amused, he told me that my response had actually been read out on radio. Pity I was not on hand to listen the first time ever - and probably the last? - that my name was broadcast live!!. At least the fella could've recorded it on his mobile (just joking).

Brings me to the topic itself. What I had sent in was that probably if I had taken a particular career decision at the very beginning of my career, I could've been something else today. But when I started thinking deeply on the issue, at least two points emerged. First, is it always right (from whatever perspective) to go with the herd & get on to the corporate rat race (there, the word again!), suppressing your entrepreneurial(!) yearnings. After all, my decision at that time, while it may have set me back on the ladder by a few years, did provide me with immense professional satisfaction then. And I can legitimately take professional pride for my work, in my own very small (and maybe largely unknown!) way. And also, may I add, working with computers at a time when it was not really the 'in thing' for non-technical people (the only meaningful - and non programming - computer course that I could go in for that time was Cobol, and I did that!) was something.


The added advantage is that while most people who got on to computers in the Windows era feel helpless when their GUI (Graphical User Interface) doesn't respond the way it should, I am probably one of the oldies who can go behind (with the 'Run' or 'Command prompt' option) and work in a DOS environment (as if that's the end of the world, some sceptics may say!), for whatever it's worth. I actually did a funny thing at one of my former cos., where a Visual FoxPro-based software couldn't take off in the local office in the absence of technical help from H.O. I actually opened the databases in the backend, using whatever grasp I had of dBase III+ (yesssss... that old & arcane stuff!)/dB-IV/FoxPro, got it running. Also, in the same co., when the only programmer at the local office left for greener pastures (those being the days when the likes of Infosys were coming up), I took charge of the payroll package (again on good ol' FoxPro) and kept it going (they actually contacted me a year after I had left, to make some changes to the package - apparently the newer programmers at H.O. refused to support such an old utility!). And to add, I handled smooth transition of our systems to the 21st century through the Y2K conundrum (ask oldies about that)!

I realise I'm starting to be boring for all but those with a technical bent of mind. So, much as computers happen to be my secret love, let's move on. The second point I want to make is - who really knows what his or her decisions are going to lead to. The world is so dynamic and the multiple factors at play are changing so rapidly all the time (more so in the last twenty years than probably the fifty before that, and these 20 years happen to be my career), that I believe no one, but no one, can predict the result of any particular decision twenty years down the line. Because by that time the world itself would have changed beyond recognition, to a totally different paradigm. 



The bottomline is, don't cry on spilt milk and move one. Actually, that very spilt milk has a good probability of leading to unintended and sometimes pleasant consequences, if only for the cat!(:-). For more on the unpredictability of destiny, read War and Peace (if not Bhagvad Gita) where the recurrent theme is that conscious actions of men (alas, hardly any women fought in those days) hardly lead to victories or defeats in battles. Likewise, in life (or career).

So the point I want to make is: the conventional wisdom about career progression, and the desirability of certain career goals, is just that - conventional. Who can say that my goal of having sufficient time & energy at the end of a working day to read an engaging book (fiction or non-fiction) is decidedly inferior to the goal of some other hard-driving executive who may want to fill up all his waking hours with things which would have a clear connection to his professional progress. And levels of ambition differ widely person to person, though it is true that (unfortunately, or so I believe) lack of ambition is maligned to no end these days as lack of drive or energy or innovativeness. Not so, it may just be that many of us have been stuck in a rut - not of our own choosing - due to constraints and demands of life, and may consciously chose not to waste any more energy on keeping on doing the same thing, even if in marginally different ways, or at different - read higher - levels of responsibility. 



And while on responsibility levels, the Peter principle remains one of my favourites - every person in an organisation eventually rises to his level of incompetence. I have seen live evidence of technically competent people pushed to 'higher' managerial roles (due to demands of professional life - read "the rat race") and losing their spark.

I believe this is the origin of all the fashionable talk these days of 'early retirement'. It's a smart choice no doubt - do all the gruntwork (even if unpleasant) till you are in your 40s and earn enough moolah to last the rest of your lifetime (even if you choose to do nothing thereafter). The point is - isn't it somewhat manifest that many of the people who look for such early retirement are not really enjoying what they do, but have to keep doing it with the primary goal of earning money (nothing wrong in that - no judgemental views, to each his own). And many of them would like to take up, once they 'retire early', their real passion - painting? hiking? world tour? whatever. As for me, if I'm in a profession which I totally enjoy, (like reading books? a reviewer? a wine-taster?), I could probably do it lifelong, without retirement - wouldn't you?

As for me, I have virtually no hope of ever being able to retire peacefully (early or not!), having begun to accumulate my retirement egg much later than what conventional (there, that word again) wisdom says! :-( But conventiontional wisdom also says that you should have insurance coverage 40-times your annual income, even if you cannot probably afford the premium!

Keep smelling the flowers as you go. Who knows, tomorrow there may be no flowers when you find the time to smell them.

The professional rat race (18th Feb.'09)

A column in last Sunday's Hindustan Times Brunch 'A Life Less Ordinary' touched a raw nerve. Of course what it says is all true - everybody these days wants to have the best life, best holidays, best dinners, even best kids! But for many of us, do we have a choice? Personally, many of us may like nothing better than roll up at home with a good book or play with our children. Professionally, one may like to tinker around on the more technical issues at hand. However, professional life seems to be pushing us relentlessly towards less meaningful (read: less technical & more 'schmoozing' kind) roles. And the pressures of work start to have an effect on reading & other habits at home - hardly any time!

The point is, in the current scenario, there may be only a few professions (mostly those on the creative side) where you can afford to take it easy and opt out of the rat race. For most others, if you are not moving ahead, you are actually falling behind! One may like to keep doing whatever holds meaning for one (and also adds value to the organisation, of course) for an extended period of time. However, at the end of, say, three years, if one has not moved up in career, people around in office (and also kith & kin, who are a big part of the equation) may start treating the person as a laggard ("He would be somewhere today if he had the ability"). Or, worse still, s/he may be looking at being 'downsized' ("not dynamic enough")!
 

So 'keeping up with the Joneses' has another angle - not being able to get off the tiger's back (no allusion to Raju!). And so we continue, suppressing our inner desires & feelings and going with whatever works (and being a rat in the race!).

House hunting - Dubai (21st Sept.'08)

Talking of hassles, the biggest of them all is of course finding an apartment here. Rents seem to be increasing 5% every month, and they've increased by as much as 25% in some areas since the time I came here in July to tie things up.

And not that apartments are not there. You find apartments of all kinds listed in newspapers - 1/2/3-bedroom apartments, 4/5-bedroom villas, furnished & unfurnished, all kinds. But if you're looking to find a place with all reasonable amenities nearby (supermarket, medical facilities, transport) at a reasonable rent - just forget it! All such areas within reasonable cost are either just too far away (e.g. International City), secluded blocks (e.g. Discovery Gardens) or still coming up (with lots of dust around) e.g. Jumeirah Lake Towers. On two successive days, I walked something like 5 miles (each day) in the Bur Dubai/Mankhool area, just looking for an apartment, without any success - I'm sure at the minimum it'd help me lose some of my tummy!

So your choice is between the devil & the deep sea - either chose a place with no amenities nearby (and probably far from everywhere), or pay through your nose. As for me, I've been scouting around for close to four weeks (my colleagues tell me they - collectively! - didn't take that much time to find an apartment). Finally I plumped for an area with all reasonable facilities nearby i.e. Bur Dubai. Some people tried to dissuade me, citing the distance from office & consequently the time to be spent commuting every day. But, at the end of the day, you need to be assured that while you're at work the 12 hours or so, your family is well provided for and secure.

Even here, it's not easy to land a good apartment. There are so many permutations and computations. Old building, new building. Open kitchen, separate kitchen. With gym/swimming pool, or without. And the clincher for us - with balcony and without. After all, we Indians do need a bit of Sun to dry our clothes. So it seems I'd finally have to stay on at the hotel apartment for some more time. Not a bad idea as the rent here - almost the same as that of a regular apartment (for a year) - is inclusive of utilities and daily cleaning (plus you save on the 5% commission), something for which you'd otherwise spend a small fortune.

Trying to settle down - Dubai (21st Sept.'08)

It's such a long, long time since I wrote the blog. So many things have happened in between. I left my last job, joined another, then left it after a bit less than 2 years. 

First thing anyone who comes to Dubai in the summers notices is, of course, the heat. Quite different from India. It hits you like a wall. Anyways, I coped OK for a few weeks and now it's a bit cooler (though not 'cold' by any standards - you still need the aircon indoors all the time). And people in my office at Jebel Ali (outskirts of Dubai, on the Sheikh Zayed Road to Abu Dhabi) tell me that the temperature here touched 61C in peak summer - I'm lucky! The second thing you notice here is that Fridays are Sundays!!(:-)

Staying in a hotel apartment in Bur Dubai and commuting the 65-odd kilometers to office everyday, it's a more than 1-hour commute in the morning & an hour in the evening. Vehicles move at more than 100 KMPH here on an average (and some people even exceed the mandated max. of 120, speed at which the cars start beeping - factory setting!). However, the volume of traffic is so much that it crawls during peak hours. Many evenings (most!), the traffic on Sheikh Zayed Road is so much that (esp. when we get advance info. from one of the office cars going that way) we take the alternative route through Emirates Road (the road which connects most of the emirates in UAE), and still end up spending an hour on the road.

And all this even when the RTA (the road transport authority) keeps imposing toll tax ("Salik") on more and more stretches of the highway, perhaps to keep out the traffic. Alongwith this, the RTA has two more weapons in its armoury to reduce traffic - most free parking spaces of yore are being converted to paid parkings (about 2-3 US cents an hour) and, the biggest hassle of all, reducing the rate of issue of driving licences to a trickle (smart move - you can't drive if you don't have a licence, even if cars are much cheaper here than almost anywhere else).

The last field trip - Manila (10th Oct.'06)

Who knew that my first ever visit to Philippines was destined to be possibly my last travel, at least in the foreseeable future. I am leaving my current organisation and the associated nomadic life, and entering a more stable phase of my career - expecting a more 9 to 5 kind of job with much less travel (& almost no travel outside home country). But I'm doing it with full confidence that it's the right career move, providing me opportunity to come back to industry, gain managerial experience and join at a higher level than the current one - all leading up to wide avenues of future progress.

Anyways, so I arrived in Manila on a cloudy afternoon, after spending 5 hrs. at the new Bangkok 'Suvarnabhumi' airport. The new Bangkok airport is huge (gives a feeling like Charles de Gaul at Paris), but seems to have got a bit impersonal, what with big shops & the absence of any of the small water/juice/convenience kiosks which were there at Don Muang. I walked about 2 kms. inside the airport trying to locate the Louise Tavern Dayrooms, but when I got there I found they were still building the short-stay rooms! Couldn't they at least publicise the fact, instead of marking it in all the maps & even putting direction boards? Or do they just want to show that the airport is fully functional in 10 days when it actually is not?

Anyways, Manila has quite a moderate weather, and now (Tuesday) it's even raining cats & dogs so it's quite pleasant - quite a relief from Delhi which is swelteriing during the day. And the office aircon is set to so cold that my local colleague got a cold & is wearing a shawl today! I am staying at the Somerset Millennium residences, Makati. It has a good reputation, but unfortunately I found on the very first day that the bathroom had a leak (which was mercifully repaired by Monday) and that the curtain would not close fully leaviing a crack (which has not been remedied till now). But at least the food is OK (even if the breakfast room is tiny & the lobby quite congested, which could be because the residents use it more as a home than as a hotel) - I had a Malaysian 'roti' (just like India) with mashed potatos for dinner last night!

We went to the nearby Greenbelt mall for lunch both days. It seems quite big, and has a good variety of food available.

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Indian gods in Indonesia - Jakarta (16th Dec.'05)



I'm aware that I've not written this blog regularly, mainly due to laziness. Now I'm in Jakarta, Indonesia. It's rainy season here, and today it's half sunny as usual. The city is OK, a lot less chaotic than Bangkok, with wide roads which get congested only during busy hours. And there are a few good malls & markets. The small one near our hotel is Sarinah (& Lotus opposite), while the bigger ones like Ambassador have a supermarket. The prices of some things here are quite cheap (though not as cheap as in House of Fashion/ Cotton Collection/Odel in Colombo, Sri Lanka), for instance clothing, toys (mostly chinese), electronic applicances (including cameras) and DVDs. But my colleague tells me that many branded goods (though they may be made in this region) are found cheaper in the States.

For my field visit last week, I went to Kupang, which is just the western part of the island where East Timor is situated (where I went in August this year). The town is like any other small town in Asia, and the countryside is also nothing to write home about. Our hotel, though, had good rooms even as the food options (especially vegetarian) were rather limited.

The Bhasa Indonesia language (which is spoken or at least understood in most parts) and the old languages (Balinese/Javanese) have a lot of Indian sounding words, a sample of which is as below:

manushya (human)                                          Siva (name of a god)
raja (king)                                                        Vishnu (name of a god)
kursi (chair)                                                     Brahma (name of a god)
kamara (room)                                                 Rabi (prophet)
jawab (answer)                                                Salam (hello: greeting)
maaf (sorry)                                                    selamat (good)
guru (teacher)                                                 mesjid (mosque)
hukum (order/law)                                          bandar (port)
naga (serpent)                                                 nama (name)
kunji (key)                                                       sabun (soap)
Bhupati (regent)                                             girja (church)
istana (place: 'sthana')                                     umar (age)
surat (identity/face)                                        wah (wow)
swami (husband)                                             isteri (wife: 'stree')
putra (son)                                                      putri (daughter)
roti (bread)                                                     topi (hat)
kapala (head)                                                  kapas (cotton)
dua (prayer)                                                    rahib (monk)
prathama (first)
eka, dwi, tri...(1,2,3,... Sanskrit) (OLD BALINESE)

And some words refer to the Indian meaning, though they don't have identical meaning:

mahal (expensive)               'palace' in Hindi
daerah (regional)                 'region' in Hindi
dada (chest)                        could mean a 'ruffian' (with big chest!) in Hindi
leher (neck)                         means 'wave' in Hindi (referring to a wavy neck!)
pura (temple)                      'gopura' in Hindi means a part of a temple

The epic Ramanaya is enacted on stage in many part of Bali, while Mahabharata is a revered scripture just like in India.

Sunday I went to the National Museum - just opposite the National Monument. The visit confirmed that Indonesia has had very close cultural relations with India historically. The museum is littered with old 7th/8th/9th Century and later stone sculptures and other representations of all sorts of Indian gods and mythical creatures - Brahma, Vishnu (and his incarnations like Makara & Narasimha) and his mount Garuda, different forms of Siva (e.g. Ardhanarishwara) and his mount Nandi the bull, Lakshmi (also called Devi Sri here), Ganesha, the Mahabharata charaters (Bhima, Arjuna, Nakula, Krsna, Kunti, Duryodhana, Shakuni), Ramayana characters (e.g. Hanumana, Angada), Mahishasurmardini, Durga/Uma/Kali, et al. And side by side there is also Budha in many poses - Bhairava Budha (with skulls at his feet), Bodhisattva... In addition to this, the museum has many other artefacts (e.g. ceramics from different eras), models of Java/Bali houses, woodwork, urns, etc. Though small, it's well worth a visit.

Source of the river Nile, Jinja - Uganda (15th Apr'05)

I am in Uganda, at a place called Jinja, about 100 kms. from the capital city Kampala. It's quite a change of scene, though Kampala itself is not too bad by way of greenery compared to some other capital cities (notably Bangkok in Thailand) which are nothing but concrete jungles. We are staying at Jinja Nile River Resort, a nicely laid out complex of cottages (2 to each 'hut') right on the banks of the gushing Nile. What surprised me at first was the powerful flow of the river, quite near as it is to its source. In fact, one my chief attractions of spending even the weekend at this place was to see the source of the great river, which I'm told originates at Lake Victoria, though the main tributary is reportedly only a trickle where it begins. And then I'm told there is a blue Nile & a white Nile which begin in Ethiopia, and they get together in Sudan. 

It's a nice feeling looking out over the river in the morning with a cup of tea in hand, where I can see the small white birds flying in formation over the group of small islands in the middle of river. Rains have already started (it rains cats & dogs some nights), and everything around is green, with the white walls & red tiled roofs of the cottages providing contrast. From where I am, I can look across the river, right past the lodges on the opposite bank, glancing at the great curving bridge (where the speed limit is 20 kmph for some reason - probably because the old dam got damaged when the new one was constructed) and some structures coming up nearby (hope they are not ugly concrete ones), up the slopes of the surrounding hills right till the top where I can see the power & communication towers. When it is not raining, you can see the golden clouds over the hills, bathed in the reflected glory of the Sun. So even if the food is crappy and the service worse, the view compensates a lot.

After breakfast today, we went around the stone pathways inside the complex. Sadly, the pathways don't loop back but end after the particular rows of cottages, only the middle one going beyond towards the bank where a lodge of some kind with an observation tower is under construction. It would be a good idea to sit at one of the swings near the cottages with a nice book in hand, though when it rains in the morning I have to sit in my verandah & read the book while listening to the chirping of the birds & the roar of the river.
 

Birds, though, are not the only vocal creatures here. While at supper some evenings near the bar, we can hear a symphony of frogs croaking all around the nearby swimming pool, as if heralding the rains (which dutifully obliged in the next few hours, whence began the pitter-patter of the raindrops on the rooftops). We are told that when not too many people are walking about, as it was last evening, the frogs try to fill the gap, and also take the occasional dip in the pool. As for non-vocal creatures, of the winged kind, there are a few cricket-like insects flying about on the grass lawns (which every cottage is surrounded by), as also sundry wasps and some other ones, though mosquitoes are conspicuous by their relative absence, at least there are not as many as one would expect near a river & especially during rains. Nevertheless, I take care to be in full-sleeved attire most of the time after evening, and also use the spray.

Natural beauty is strewn around here, not only here but also on the road to Kamuli, about 60 kms. away. The highway to Kamuli is a treat, rising and falling like the fragment of a wave or a great python. And all around there is thick vegetation, with some well laid out clusters of tall trees in between, going right upto the small hills in the distance. A few small towns in between serve to break the monotony. When I look at places like this, I so marvel at the wonders of packaging and branding. Kenya in this region may be having much less of such naturally beautiful places, but they have packaged their treasures so well that it's well known as a tourist destination (though more for the safaris). But places like this in Uganda (and some others like Sierra Leone), which are not able to package it well and also provide the requisite infrastructure, languish. Though, on second thoughts, this may not always be a bad thing, as too much tourist traffic doubtless spoils the natural environs.

Sunday evening we went to the Source of the River Nile, which is down a small hill with a winding road. What surprised me firstly is the bulk & the flow of the river even at the source, maybe since I am more used to rivers starting as trickles from some mountaintop. I was told that the river Nile begins from Lake Victoria but, looking at the surrounding mountains, never realised this was the place.

We hired a boat with an outboard motor strapped on, and we were taken to a place where the river reportedly starts flowing from the lake. We were shown the difference in the movement of the lake water (which has waves) and the river water (which flows). At the source, we were shown how water seems to rise up & break the surface in small puddles. And we were shown the difference in the colour of the water, supposedly deep blue in the lake & a lighter hue in the river. All this was explained to us while standing at a rock outcropping at the confluence, with a small platform erected to mark the place. We also sailed by the big island in the middle of the river which has lodges and all, and could see fishermen going about their work. All in all, a good trip. And when we came back to the shore again, we landed at a place which had a bust of
 Gandhi - supposedly his ashes were immersed in the Nile.

The ubiquitous BRAC - Dhaka (16th Aug.'04)

Writing from Dhaka, Bangladesh, where we are in the closing stages of our visit, though the actual departure from here could take another couple of days. It's a bit sunny outside now (after mostly cloudy days earlier), which is nothing good as it would raise the level of humidity. So whenever we go out of our AC room, we'd feel the heat. The visit has been pretty uneventful, with people here mostly cooperative, though we do expect some fireworks when we sit down later today to discuss our initial findings.

We have hardly moved around in the city. Bought some DVDs, out of which 3 (Harry Potter, Lord of Rings & Last Samurai) I've already watched. Went to the same NGO supermarket/branches thereof twice, but could not finalise the Jamdani sari I was hoping to purchase for wifey, the prices mostly hovering in the stratosphere. It gives an idea how much the NGOs here earn, from all sorts of activities - there is a BRAC Bank, BRAC Property & god knows what else! With their income totally exempt, one wonders where all this money is going. As expected, I've no language probs as most people speak a version of Bengali which is not too difficult to understand. The hotel under Sri Lankan management is also OK, with a master chef who rustles up anything - for the Italian/Sri Lankan/International buffet dinners on different days of the week - wtih elan. They also provided a pretty good aloo zeera last evening for our dinner. Today we had lunch at the office canteen, which was actually better than what we were getting from outside last week.

I'll have a few days at home when I get back to India, before I leave for Bangkok.

A courageous people - Sierra Leone (17 June'04)

Writing from Freetown in Sierra Leone, where I hope to finish my assignment today and fly off tomorrow. Got here via Conakry (Republic of Guinea, not to be confused with Guinea Bissau or Equatorial Guinea) after waiting four hours at Paris airport (saw an amusing sight of a lady holding her small walking baby by some kind of a leash, which I'm told is quite common these days because of the risk of child thefts!). Also saw in Duty Free some digital cameras for about Euro 130 and a Sony handycam (old model) for Euro 350 (1 Euro = Rs. 55 approx.), but these things are at least 20% cheaper in Bangkok.

Conakry, the capital city of the Republic of Guinea, is an island. It took us two hours to reach hotel from airport because of bad roads & traffic jams. The hotel was small but OK - it was on the beach (though visiting the beach is not advisable due to it being dirty and also not very safe), so I could see the sea on three sides from the snack bar on the top (4th) floor. It was the start of the rainy season there, and it was raining in the morning (since 2.30 my colleague told me). My colleagues left by road to another city N'zerekore where the Country Office is located (because a flight of the only airline here crashed last Dec., the office here advised against taking the flight) - poor men, they'll take 1.5 days reaching there!
 

The flight from Conakry to Freetown (capital of Sierra Leone) was of only half-hour in a small turboprop (probably a Russian AN-12). It mostly flew over the Atlantic, to land at Lungi (yeah, even the pronunciation is like the cloth worn in India) airport at Freetown. The airport is on a small island, so I had then to take a 10-minute helicopter ride to reach the mainland (even the term 'mainland' is relative - actually even this is a small island, but connected to the mainland by a bridge). Theye put me up in a place called Family Kingdom (near the UN peacekeeping forces headquarters at Mammy Yoke, which used to be a hotel earlier), which seems like some sort of a resort with a children's amusement park and zoo, and I can see some birds (partridge like) and animals scurrying around the complex. The Kingdom is located right across the road from the beach. The beach seems inviting, with sloshing waters and good sands.  I don't know about any security concerns - probably there are none as I could see a number of Westerners lounging on the beach and the small seaside restaurants with their vehicles nearby. Had a walk on the beach Sunday mid-morning

Freetown is a hilly place (like Kandy in Sri Lanka) but along the coast. Rains have started here, though it's not raining continuosly. The place is full of Westerners - mostly belonging to UN peacekeeping forces but also other UN relief agencies. Sierra Leone was troubled by a civil war for most of 1990s, though now it's peaceful & most UN peacekeepers are scheduled to leave shortly. The civil war seems to have affected everything here (even our organisation here has a trauma relief program) - I can see broken houses practically all over the town. While coming back after lunch at the city centre (coastal area), I stopped at an Indian shop called Merani Stores to buy water - the particular street seemed full of Indian (specifically Gujarati/Sindhi) owned businesses like Choithram Supermarket, though I couldn't see any Indian restaurants. Food here is better than Guinea, as it's an English-speaking country & not French. I ordered some chicken curry with rice at the restaurant - it was OK though the curry was very thick (with cornflour?) with all kinds of vegetable pieces floating in it.

Visited Port Loko on Tuesday. The name means 'port of local people'. The route was beautiful, a fine road for most part winding across lush green grasslands/forests (with no wild beasts, as our driver told us!) and low 
mountains. Sierra Leone is well-endowed by nature, with mountains and beaches side by side (like at Freetown), and has great tourism potential if only the peace would hold, which it seems to be holding. All the best.

Forbidden City - Beijing (10th June'04)

View of Beijing from inside Forbidden City
Beijing City is undoubtedly very impressive - tall skyscrapers, wide roads and multi level long flyovers everywhere. A lot of construction is also going on for the 2008 Olympics.


Tiananmen Square
People's Hall

The famous Tiananmen Square is huge. Our guide said it's the world's largest square - reportedly 1 million people can occupy the square at one time. It's not exactly square, more like a rectangle. It's surrounded on the four sides by the people's hall (the Chinese parliament house, which has a banquet hall which can reportedly seat 10,000 people), Mao's memorial, history museum and the Forbidden City.

Entrance to the Forbidden City
The Forbidden City is the old emperor's palace, which was occupied by the emperors till the early part of 20th century. The guide repeatedly referred to the movie "The Last Emperor" and even pointed out some differencess from the movie version. The last emperor was crowned at the age of three. He was chosen from among the royal family, as the previous emperor had died without leaving an heir. He was expelled from the Forbidden City in the 1920 when he (or his men) tried to take the royal treasures out and sell them - these treasures are reportedly now in Taiwan, where Chiang Kai Shek fled with them after being defeated by Mao. Then the emperor was imprisoned for a long time, first in USSR and then in free China, before being released finally in the 1950s; he has later written his autobiography.
Entering the Forbidden City
Reportedly, no one in the empire was allowed to build any house taller than the Forbidden City, nor use golden coloured roof like the City nor even use the dragon motif. The City is surrounded by a moat. The bridge over the moat has five marble bridges reaching the outer gate - the middle one for the emperor to cross, left one for the royal family, the right one for the courtiers and the others for the commoners. Inside the outer gate, there are offices of translators on the left and of secretaries on the right. All the courtiers (who used to come outside the outer gate at 4 am come rain or shine) sat kneeling down in the huge courtyard inside the outer gate when the emperor ruled.



There are three gates to the inner City (which served as the emperor's personal palaces) - only the emperor (and the empress only once after the wedding) could use the central one. The palaces in the City are all made of carved wood, though the floor is made of marble & inner room floors of golden coloured bricks. The palace has a Golden Throne building where the emperor sat. The gate to the emperor's complex of buildings was called the Meridien Gate, as the emperor believed the meridien line (international time line) passed thru that place (remember am/pm - anti meridien/post meridien). Come to think of it, he may actually have been right - if the western countries had not imposed the Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), adopting the line in Greenwich in England as the central time line, China's may have been the time line; after all, scientifically I don't think there is any one central longitude in the earth and the time lines are all assumptions.